Jay’s story: Back in his happy place

Surfer Jay Piper-Healion is out on the waves for the first time in a year and is overwhelmed with a sense of joy. 

The 24-year-old from Auckland ruptured his anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) surfing and it’s hard to describe the feeling of doing what he loves again. 

A group of his mates came together to mark the occasion. They all went out to Piha, the place where Jay realised there was something seriously wrong with his knee. 

In the early morning sun, you can’t wipe the smile off his face.  

“It was pretty amazing – it’s my happy place,” he says.

“I had over a year without surfing and I spent the whole time working towards that moment. When I was out there, I did stop and reflect on the past 12 months – the surgery, the rehab, all the hard work that went into that moment to get back. 

“It was really satisfying.” 

Jay remembers paddling over to his mates to sum up what he was feeling.

“I said to be back here with the boys, doing what I love, if I could bottle this feeling up, I would sell it for a million dollars. I was over the moon.” 

‘Something was not right’

Being back on his board is a long way from where Jay has been.

October of 2023 is when the problems began for the Avondale College teacher. He lined up for a game of staff versus students touch rugby. He was keen to prove a point to his students.
 
Out of nowhere – he wasn’t around the ball – his knee gave way on him. It felt weird so he tried to run it off and then it continued to buckle under him. 

“I knew something was wrong and I was just trying not to look like I injured myself in front of the students, to be honest,” he says with a laugh. 

Over the next few weeks, Jay saw three physiotherapists to work out what he’d done. He’d damaged the ACL in his right knee, but it wasn’t clear, and he started to rehab it.

That continued over eight weeks and then he tested out his knee in a surf at Piha. 

“I did a little cut back turn on my board and then my knee fully gave way again. I knew something was definitely not right.” 

The impact of injury on whānau

Jay came back in from his surf and went straight to the doctor who confirmed he’d ruptured his ACL. He was booked in for surgery in mid-December and his long road to rehabilitation began soon after. 

“I was gutted because summer is the worst time of year to be injured, I knew I was in for a long summer on the couch, while my mates were out having fun.”

That couch belonged to his parents. Jay moved back home to Whitianga to get the support of his parents as he recovered. 

“I just went straight home and stayed with them for a month, so I had mum and dad doing everything for me, which was lovely.” 

He says people don’t realise having a serious injury has a big impact on others, and there’s also a mental battle that comes with rehabilitation. 

“I was fortunate to have some good mates around who would check in on me and keep me up. Having people who I could talk to, that’s huge in staying positive.” 

‘ACC provided everything I needed’

The rehab was slow progress at first as he built up strength in his knee. It was a great feeling after a few months to begin walking again without crutches. 

Jay says ACC couldn’t have been better to deal with. 

“They were awesome,” he says.

“Everything I needed was provided for me and it was just so easy. That was great as it allowed me to focus on my recovery.” 

It was pleasing to get back into his role as a teacher and, hopefully, back surfing competitively soon. 

“When you have a serious injury like that, you realise how much you take for granted,” Jay says. 

Dangers lurk in the waves 

Surfing is the leading cause of water-related injuries every year. 

In 2023, we accepted 5,582 surfing-related injury claims which came at a cost of $13.5 million to help people recover. 

ACC Injury Prevention Leader James Whitaker says anyone who enters the surf needs to respect the ocean.

“The ocean is beautiful and provides a lot of joy – but it’s also bigger and more powerful than any of us and needs to be respected,” he says.  

James says the best way to stay safe in the surf is to take a moment before you get stuck in.

“Monitor the conditions and the risks before you get out there, then take the safest options. If you’re in doubt, finding something else to do might be the best option,” he says. 

‘Have a hmmm’ before your surf

Ben Kennings, Chief Executive of Surfing New Zealand, says people have a world of information at their fingertips on their phones these days and it’s a good idea to make use of it.

“Assessing the conditions in front of you is great and understanding forecasts helps you make more informed decisions – be that the predicted wind, swell or tide times,” he says. 

“While most people try to avoid crowded line-ups, it’s important to surf with others too. If you get into difficulty or get injured, another surfer can assist you to shore or call for help.”  

Jay agrees. He says if you don’t know the area, talk to some of the locals first, like other surfers or lifeguards.  

“Just talk to them about what the conditions are like and what the hazards are you need to watch out for,” he says.

“Even experienced surfers can get into trouble and sometimes you just need to play it safe.” 

Tips for staying safe in the waves 

• Check it before you charge it – take it easy on your first rides until you’ve worked out how shallow it is and identified any other hazards (crowd, close out sections etc)
• Surf in conditions that match your ability – if in doubt, don’t go out
• Give others plenty of room – if they’re up and riding, leave them to it
• Always wear a leg rope
• Stay with your board – it’s an awesome flotation device
• Cover your head when you fall off – it happens to everyone, regardless of their ability, so it pays to do what you can to prevent head knocks, cuts and concussion